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a centre of cultural and political power from before 1000 BC. Kos town is a small version of Rhodes but less elegant and decidedly noiser. There are several ancient sites of Greek, Roman and Crusader culture with at least one, the Asclepieion, being of international importance. Sadly all are appallingly labelled and offer no help to the inquisitive visitor to interpret the ruins; indeed many are not even signposted.